MEMORIALS OF A TOUR ON THE CONTINENT
XXIII
THE CHURCH OF SAN SALVADOR
SEEN FROM THE LAKE OF LUGANO
This Church was almost destroyed by lightning a few years ago,
but the altar and the image of the Patron Saint were untouched.
The Mount, upon the summit of which the Church is built, stands
amid the intricacies of the Lake of Lugano; and is, from a hundred
points of view, its principal ornament, rising to the height of
00 feet, and on one side nearly perpendicular. The ascent is
toilsome; but the traveller who performs it will be amply
rewarded. Splendid fertility, rich woods and dazzling waters,
seclusion and confinement of view contrasted with sealike extent
of plain fading into the sky; and this again, in an opposite
quarter, with an horizon of the loftiest and boldest Alps--unite
in composing a prospect more diversified by magnificence, beauty,
and sublimity, than perhaps any other point in Europe, of so
inconsiderable an elevation, commands.
THOU sacred Pile! whose turrets rise
From yon steep mountain's loftiest stage,
Guarded by lone San Salvador;
Sink (if thou must) as heretofore,
To sulphurous bolts a sacrifice,
But ne'er to human rage!
On Horeb's top, on Sinai, deigned
To rest the universal Lord:
Why leap the fountains from their cells
Where everlasting Bounty dwells?--
That, while the Creature is sustained,
His God may be adored.
Cliffs, fountains, rivers, seasons, times--
Let all remind the soul of heaven;
Our slack devotion needs them all;
And Faith--so oft of sense the thrall,
While she, by aid of Nature, climbs--
May hope to be forgiven.
Glory, and patriotic Love,
And all the Pomps of this frail "spot
Which men call Earth," have yearned to seek,
Associate with the simply meek,
Religion in the sainted grove,
And in the hallowed grot.
Thither, in time of adverse shocks,
Of fainting hopes and backward wills,
Did mighty Tell repair of old--
A Hero cast in Nature's mould,
Deliverer of the stedfast rocks
And of the ancient hills!
'He', too, of battle-martyrs chief!
Who, to recall his daunted peers,
For victory shaped an open space,
By gathering with a wide embrace,
Into his single breast, a sheaf
Of fatal Austrian spears.
NOTE
36 Arnold Winkelried, at the battle of Sempach, broke an Austrian
phalanx in this manner. The event is one of the most famous in the
annals of Swiss heroism; and pictures and prints of it are
frequent throughout the country.
